![]() Explore The Magical World of Waffles Scene from: Tarzan's Waffle Supper, Universal, 1938 (l. to. r.: Sue Bareuw, Lex Barker, Nova Caine) | |||||||
| Hi Lindy
Hoppers!!! There are exciting things inside your kitchen... | |||||||
Let's Take a Trip Inside Your Waffle Iron!.
Waffles and Swing Dancing?Is there a connection between Swing Dancing and Waffles? You bet there is! It comes in the form of Wells Famous Restaurant in Harlem -- during the Harlem Renaissance, Wells was open 24/7 and attracted may late-night/early morning customers hungry after a night on the town. The specialty of the house was fried chicken and waffles, something that was mid-way between dinner and breakfast. In 1999, the Amsterdam News, the Harlem neighborhood newspaper had this to say about Wells: "... No appetites are safe from the magnificent Southern Creole cuisine when visiting Wells restaurant, located uptown in the Big Apple. Famous for more than their chicken and waffles, Wells entertains customers with Caribbean flair and a frenzy of live music. Harlem hasn't been the same since Wells opened in May 1938. The owner, Elizabeth Wells, is determined to bring people a humble, homey atmosphere with exciting home-style cooking, but with a twist of island flavor and a lot of fun. Joseph T. Wells, the late husband of Wells, had a record of cooking techniques in the mix. Working as a waiter and manager of a restaurant in Florida, Joseph took his craft to New York during the late 1920s. It was inevitable for the young entrepreneur to start his business and, by the spring of 1938, the restaurant bearing his name opened its doors. Elizabeth Wells entered the picture later. They married in 1966, even though she had joined the establishment in 1963. The married couple produced a son named Tommy Wells. With an avalanche of victory for the restaurant, Wells bloomed as one of the greatest hot spots in Harlem, with a bevy of entertainers who dropped in...Wells has been spinning the wheels of the restaurant with tip-top soul food and no regrets..." Wells Famous Restaurant Wells was known for jazz, waffles, and celebrities throughout the 30s, 40s and 50s. One story about Well's seems to be widely told and re-told. During late 1950s, Sammy Davis, Jr. and Kim Novak were dating. One morning after breakfast at Wells' Kim's fur coat was found to be "missing" from the coat-room. Frank Sinatra made a stern announcement to the crowd about the missing coat and it appeared back the next day. ![]() Trademark for Wells: Chicken and Waffles Since 1938 In 1986, the folks at Wells took out a trademark on their famous slogan "Home of Chicken and Waffles Since 1938". We note that their trademark only applies to their graphic logo and they have not attempted to restrict the use of "chicken" "waffles" or "1938" only that they have been "famous" for the dish since 1938. The Harlem Renaissance Orchestra at Wells' Wells continued to play a role even during the Swing Revival of the 1990s. On Monday nights, the Harlem Renaissance Orchestra played in a small corner of the restaurant and many of the original Lindy Hoppers (including Norma Miller and Frankie Manning) were regulars, joined by whatever newcomers (like the Rhythm Hot Shots) may have been in town. I made the pilgrimage to Wells in 1998. I loved the fried chicken and waffles, but I was not so thrilled about the carpet on the dance floor. I have heard rumors that Wells may have closed its doors. If so, this would be a real tragedy. If any of our readers can clarify this point, pelase contact me. Those of you with a taste for chcken and waffles may find them at equally famous places like Roscoe's in Los Angeles and Gladys Knight's Place in Atlanta. Brief History of WafflesEssentially, waffles are a form of griddle-cake based on flour, milk, eggs, butter, oil and leavening that are cooked on both sides simultaneously in a mold that takes the form of a gridded surface. Because of the "teeth and gaps" of the waffle mold or "iron", considerably more of the surface area is heated and caramelized relative to the "pancake" -- thus, the waffle has more taste and a crispness that enables it to serve as a support for other foods. Waffles serve many of the same roles in sweets as toast serves in savories. Waffles began in the high cusine of Europe and came to America by way of Thomas Jefferson who brought a waffle iron back from France in the 1790s. Since Mr. Jefferson (author of the Declaration of Independence) relied on slaves for his cooking, skill at making waffles soon spread to the African-American community. Recipes for both Waffles and Fried Chicken appear in What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking, (Abby Fisher, 1881). Mrs. Fisher was a former slave and her book is generally considered the first cookbook written by an African-American. Apparently, white people were eating waffles and fried chicken as well as recipes for the two appear in Mrs. Porter's Southern Cookery Book published in 1871. Among the slaves, whose cuisine was based almost entirely on the scraps left behind by landowners and plantation families, poultry was a rare delicacy. Similarly, waffles were unusual, expensive and time-consuming, and hence exotic. As a result, chicken and waffles came to be a special-occasion meal in African American families, often supplying a hearty Sunday morning meal before a long day in church. The technology of waffles is fourfoldfold: (1)the "iron" or mold in which the waffle is cooked; (2)the method of heating the iron; (3) the method of regulating temperature in the iron; and (4) the recipe for the waffle batter. We will explore the basic nature of each factor of technology. However, this discussion will barely scratch the surface. Those with very detailed appetites for information about Waffle Technology should consult: George, William, Antique electric waffle irons 1900-1960 : a history of the appliance industry in 20th century America William George. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 1-55395-632-X Our survey of waffle technology is going to focus on my Manning-Bowman "Twin-o-Matic" machine. It has all the general characteristics of electric waffle-makers with the unusual feature that it can make two at one time. IF you have another kind of machine, it will have the same basic structure as the "Twin-O-Matic" with only half the components. The Waffle Iron and its HeatThe mold that is used to cook waffles is a heavy, heat-retaining device with a top and bottom compartment. The mold is gridded in a rectangular fashion such that protrusions on the top portion are complemented by depressions in the bottom (and vice versa). Because waffle molds were historically made out of cast iron, the device has come to be known as a "Waffle Iron". Today, aluminum and steel are the principal metals used to manufacture waffle "irons". Historical waffle irons go back to the 15th century and possibly before. Like many utensils, the design and production of waffle irons was a matter between the customer and his blacksmith. The closest thing to an old-fashioned non-electric waffle iron is the pizelle maker. Pizzelle (pronounced "pit-sell") are Italian wafer cookies. The name comes from the Italian pizze for round and flat. Many different cultures have adapted this technology and re-named it accordingly. In Scandinavia they are also known as "Lukken" and in Holland as Krumcake. All use an iron similar iron to the pizzelle. The old style pizzelle irons required cooking over a heat souce as opposed heating with electric resistance coils irons. You can still purchase the old style iron made by Brio at Literi in the City Market, near Galludet University> ![]() Brio Manual Pizzelle Iron The long handles are used to open the mold and then hold it over a fire. Considerable skill is required to know when to put the dough into the mold and when to take it off the fire. After years of practice, I now only burn about 10% of the pizzelle that I attempt. In the case of waffles, electric technology is much better, and we shall move to that forthwith. ![]() Mr. Cole's Patent Click here if you want to learn how to get Free Patent Drawings In 1926, Mr. Charles M. Cole of Oakland, California came up with a novel idea for cooking two waffles at once. He devised a three-part mold with each segment heated by electric current. This device allowed couples to have their waffle at the same time (contributing to happy and harmonious breakfasts) and also was fairly economical in use of electric current. (In the 1920s, electricity was VERY expensive, perhaps 25 cents/Kwh in 1926 dollars. This would be about $7.50/kwh in today's dollars compared with an actual cost of about 7 cents/Kwh.) Electric Waffle Irons began as fairly utilitarian devices as shown in these photos of a very early Westinghouse appliance: ![]() ![]() The Westinghouse Waffle Iron Electric Waffle Iron 115V 550W CAT NO VA-4 or WA-4 Westinghouse B&M Works Mansfield Ohio Patented June 8-05 April 20-09 Ded 13- Dec 27-21 This did the job, but it sure wasn't streamlined. This brings us to the piece de resistance of this page: The Manning-Bowman Twin-O-Matic![]() There are a zillion waffle irons. I own a bunch of them, but my favorite is the Manning-Bowman "Twin-O-Matic" both because of its unusual design and the way that it implicitly fosters "togetherness." The "twin" was designed by Karl Ratliff explicitly for the 1939 NEW YORK WORLDS FAIR. The Twin is a direct descendant of Mr. Cole's design but with an added Art Deco zest. This unique design won world awards and is the ONLY waffle iron shown in Tony Fusco's noted "ART DECO" BOOK, Volumes 1 and 2. It consists of 2 pieces: a double TOP/BOTTOM Waffle Iron derived from the Coles patent (above) and a circular chrome plated "trunion mount" that has 2 heavy Bakelite Cradles to support the irons. It is somewhat unique because it has both a Thermometer and a Thermostat. The Manning-Bowman "Twin-O-Matic" ![]() Karl Ratliff's Patent for the "Twin-O-Matic" Click here if you want to learn how to get Free Patent Drawings Manning-Bowman made a similar version, known as the "Twinover". The two appear to be very similar with the sole exception that the "Twin-O-Matic" has a raised bake indicator (shown in the picture.) The "Twinover" has a flush bake indicator. The "Twin-O-Matic" makes two eight inch waffles, as opposed to the 4-6 inch waffles made by other double irons. The Trunion Mount and Raised Bake Indicator The Bottom Waffle Section The Manufacturer's Plate The instructions call for loading the "Top Waffle Section" first (the "top" is the part with the bake indicator). If one wanted a second waffle, you were instructed to wait for 15 seconds to let the first waffle "set" and, rotate the Waffle Iron 180 degrees on the trunion, open the "Hold-Fast" clamp and load the "Bottom Waffle Section." The "Hold-fast" clamps ![]() The Trunion Parts Click here if you want to learn how to get Free Patent Drawings The two sections of the waffle iron are held together with clamps that keep the sections from separating. Because the clamps form part of the trunion mount, there is never any danger that the section that is on the bottom will come open because its clamp part is bearing the weight in the mounting. The upper section may always be easily opened due to the "U" shaped trunion opening. This arrangement is quite clever but contains a small design flaw -- the electrical plug is on the hinge side of the trunion mounting. It rotates 180 degrees and in doing so creates a flex in the cord; eventually, the cord will show mechanical failure at the flex-point as illustrated below. This "flaw" can be used in authenticating the cord that goes with the "Twin-O-Matic". However, safe operation requires an intact and properly insulated cord. ![]() Wear on the Cord Caused by Flexing Thermostatic ContolsWhile Mr. Ratliff did a wonderful job on the design of the "Twin-O-Matic", we are indebted to Mr. Alan M. Young, and employee of Manning-Bowman for the "Waffle Iron Temperature Control and Indicator Therefor". The Thermometer and the Thermostat ![]() Alan Young's Patent for the "Twin-O-Matic" Thermostat Click here if you want to learn how to get Free Patent Drawings The Thermostat uses a bimetallic strip to break the circuit when the desired temperature is reached. This is a strip made up of two metals that have different thermal expansion characteristics, such as steel and copper. If one metal expands faster than the other, the strip will warp -- and the motion caused by this warping can do useful work (like breaking the circuit...) In this case, a cam exerts some force on the bimetallic strip using a spring force to keep the contact in place for varying amounts of temperature. For "high" settings, the bimetallic strip must warp a lot more to break the contact than for "low" settings. When the temperature exceeds the desired setting, the strip "warps" and breaks the contact causing the resistance coils to cool. Because the iron is not being heated, the temperature falls and consequently the bimetallic strip "un-warps" and makes contact again, causing the coils to re-heat the iron. In this way, a continuous temperature is maintained in the cooking irons. This ingenious device is widely used in electrical appliances in one form or another and is quite reliable and cheap to manufacture. Check out a similar device used to control the temperature in electric irons. ![]() Alan Young's Patent for the "Twin-O-Matic" Thermometer Click here if you want to learn how to get Free Patent Drawings The thermostat allows the automatic control of the temperature in the waffle iron. However, the "Twin-O-Matic" also has a thermometer -- a device that indicates the actual temperature of the iron. The principle behing the thermomenter is basically the same - a bimetallic strip is made with the property that its warping is a linear function of temperature. This strip is connected to a lever mechanism that causes the small needle to rotate. Hence, the position of the needle is a direct function of the temperature. The dial is calibrated to reflect this. Of interest is the fact that the thermometer and thermostat are two independent devices that are mounted coaxially in the upper grid. The thermostat only measures heat in the upper section and must be callibrated to reflect heat in both the upper and lower sections. An adjusting screw is provided for this. Difference Between the | |||||||
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